Saturday, July 03, 2010

Three Blends

As a general rule, I tend not to drink blended whiskies all that often, the reason being traceable to the very reason blends gained their popularity in the first place. Since Ayrshire's John Walker developed the eponymous blend in the 19th century, blended whiskies have dominated the market-place, accounting for 90% of Scotch whisky sales by most reckoning. The advantage of blends is their consistency, and their smoothness next to the often fiery and volatile single casks. In fact, the popularity of single malts and single casks is a relatively recent phenomenon. All this is introduction, of course, to the tasting of three blended whiskies, which still dominate the marketplace. If you are looking for a good, quality drink that will consistently delivery the goods, then a blend is for you. (Which one is a different question all-together). The reason I tend not to drink them is that I find it difficult to pick out striking flavors and smells in them, which shows how well the different characteristics have been brought into balance.

The three blends I am writing about today, unfortunately, are not available in the US to my knowledge. First up is the Black Grouse, a peated version of the Famous Grouse that I picked up a few months ago in the duty free in the Netherlands. Bottled at 40% ABV, the Black Grouse is a peated version of this blend. It has a some phenolic qualities on the nose, wisps of smoke, green veg, and perhaps some mint? This is definitely Grouse, though, no doubt about it. It is sweet tasting, with light spice, oranges and marmalade. With water it dies a little bit (at 40% ABV to start, one should be careful when adding water). The spice kicks in a bit and there are more jams and marmalade. Quite a good drink; one to rival Johnnie Walker Black Label.

Next up is the famous (in some quarters) Black Bottle, which is apparently a blend of the Islay whiskies, and claims Bunnahabhain as its spiritual home. Also bottled at 40% ABV, this one has a buttery chardonnay color. The nose is yeasty, and masculine. There's some savory candy, but it seems a little watery and washed out (might be because of its 40% bottling strength). On the tongue it is round, with a lighter body, smokey and drying flavor. It is quite nice; a warming dram in which I can definitely detect the Bunnahabhain (it's at this point that someone is supposed to pop up and tell me that the bottle I have is a mistake that contains no Bunnahabhain... no one? Okay, on we go.)

Finally we have a smaller-scale blend from Loch Fyne whiskies in Inverary, Scotland. Own-label whiskies are quite common across the pond, and this one in particular was surprisingly good. Surprisingly? Well, perhaps I wrote too soon, because this small shop in the middle of the Inverary high street (which is a bit garish and touristy) is a gem in its own right and a serious place to buy whisky (not least demonstrated by the 20cl bottle of 70 year old Mortlach on sale in a locked, glass case). The Loch Fyne blend is a darker whisky than the Black Bottle, more a golden-copper. It has a light floral nose, with more alcohol, even though it is also bottled at 40%. There's some honey, and it is much thicker on the tongue than the Black Bottle, and chewy. I think there might be some young Bowmore in here because I get some chewy, bourbon-aged Bowmore with plastic and rubber hose. This is lovely stuff actually that I dare not dilute, because it is so drinkable straight from the bottle. It leaves just a bit of fire and spice on the roof of my mouth. With water it gets more honey and smoke on the nose. This one is very close to being like the Johnnie Walker Black -- it's the smoke that does it, see?

Each of these is an enjoyable blend in its own right, and would find a welcome place in my glass at the end of a long, hard day.

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