Wexford Irish Style Creme Ale

Let's start by saying it pays to read the can carefully before buying. This ale is not from Ireland -- it's from our good friends at Greene King Brewing Company in Suffolk, England. The can is similar to the Guiness draught can, so when you pop the top it can create something approximating a real draft pour. And it does look beautiful as the bubbles cascade down the ale in the glass. The ale is a deep crimson color and the can produces a great head of creamy foam. The can says to serve this well-chilled, but it lacks much of a nose when cold. It drinks well once the liquid chill is gone and is almost devoid of any bitterness. This is a simple ale that lives up to the promise of "smooth mellow creaminess we believe you will enjoy." Well not everyone, but it is a simple ale for drinking during your next Magners League match.

La Maree *** (3 of 5 stars)

La Maree was allegedly former French President Francois Mitterand's favorite restaurant. Located on a straigh-line along rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore from the Elysee palace in Paris, it is a quiet restaurant with a few high-end neighbors (particularly Perrier-Jouet on a neighboring corner). Since the economic down-turn, however, this restaurant (like many others) has introduced a set price menu that is a fantastic value -- 29 euro for two courses, 35 with dessert.

I showed up at about quarter to eight and was the first one in the place, so I had my choice of tables. It is a comfortable, understated restaurant, but fully aware of its main focus -- producing great food. The staff was welcoming and very attentive (even after more diners showed up). I started with a crab gazpacho with tomato sorbet and a basil bread that gave off an enveloping fragrance. The gazpacho was light and not overpowered by the crab. I had a glass of 2007 chablis with it from Brocard that went well with everything. The amuse bouche was a sardine mousse with toast that I found more palate cleansing than very flavored with sardine.

The main course was a Daurad filet that was cooked to perfection and accompanied by grilled polenta pieces, tomato chutney and an artichoke puree. Frankly, the fish alone was delicious enough to stand on its own, but the added polenta and tomato was well paired. The artichoke puree served better as a difference in texture rather than a flavor profile in itself.

To end, of course, I had the chocolate mousse, which was described as "Caribbean" with toasted almond slivers and a toulle as well as ginger. The mousse was very good, but thicker textured than I like in my mousse. It paired well with a 1988 sauternes that a light nose, but rich, deep flavor. It had pear notes paired with something similar to an orange-like acidity at the end.

A great dining experience and a good deal to boot.

Greene King's Olde Suffolk English Ale

This is an unusual ale from the giant pub-owner and brewer based in Bury-St. Edmond's (those of you who remember the great show Lovejoy will know that Bury is in East Anglia). The late Michael Jackson pointed out that the Olde Suffolk is the only ale made these days with a blend of aged beer (in large oak tuns) and young beer. Interestingly, the bottle proclaims quite boldly that caramel color has been added, which is a huge point of contention in whiskey production. Bottled at about 6% ABV (which the bottle won't tell you), it is quite weighty for an ale. It wears it well, but is teetering a bit on the edge of strong alcohol. The caramel color and the aged beer gives this ale a rich, deep red color, almost bringing it into stout color range. The nose is rich, with some mild chocolate and fruity notes. I don't get the caramel or toffee that others are picking up, but it might be too cold for that (I had this bottle in the fridge). I'll let it come closer to cool room temperature and give it another go... mmm, the chocolate comes out more now. Very reminiscent of a stout now, but the taste is a little thin for my taste. I think the higher alcohol detracts from what could have been a great ale.

Blue Hanger

Berry Brothers and Rudd, the famous London purveyors of fine wine and spirits (and home of Cutty Sark blended scotch whiskey), have released the fourth edition of the Blue Hanger vatted malts (vatted means there's no grain spirit in it). I tried some of it on a recent trip to London and have been enjoying the bottle I purchased. This fourth edition is a little different from the prior third edition, which consisted of 30 year old whiskies. The fourth has much younger whiskies, but the fine gentleman with whom I spent an hour discussing the merits of various distilleries and scotch trends assured me that some of the whiskies were as old as 31 years and no younger than 16. The result is a sherried, deep whiskey, that will certainly satisfy. I can't say that it is a remarkable whiskey, but it is not an ordinary one either. Worth savoring and seeking out if you are in London (no shipping to the US, alas).

Back in town

After a trip to London, Paris, and Rotterdam, I have a few things that I will write about in the coming days, including Francois Mitterand's favorite restaurant, BBR Bowmores, and dives in Rotterdam.