La Maree *** (3 of 5 stars)

La Maree was allegedly former French President Francois Mitterand's favorite restaurant. Located on a straigh-line along rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore from the Elysee palace in Paris, it is a quiet restaurant with a few high-end neighbors (particularly Perrier-Jouet on a neighboring corner). Since the economic down-turn, however, this restaurant (like many others) has introduced a set price menu that is a fantastic value -- 29 euro for two courses, 35 with dessert.

I showed up at about quarter to eight and was the first one in the place, so I had my choice of tables. It is a comfortable, understated restaurant, but fully aware of its main focus -- producing great food. The staff was welcoming and very attentive (even after more diners showed up). I started with a crab gazpacho with tomato sorbet and a basil bread that gave off an enveloping fragrance. The gazpacho was light and not overpowered by the crab. I had a glass of 2007 chablis with it from Brocard that went well with everything. The amuse bouche was a sardine mousse with toast that I found more palate cleansing than very flavored with sardine.

The main course was a Daurad filet that was cooked to perfection and accompanied by grilled polenta pieces, tomato chutney and an artichoke puree. Frankly, the fish alone was delicious enough to stand on its own, but the added polenta and tomato was well paired. The artichoke puree served better as a difference in texture rather than a flavor profile in itself.

To end, of course, I had the chocolate mousse, which was described as "Caribbean" with toasted almond slivers and a toulle as well as ginger. The mousse was very good, but thicker textured than I like in my mousse. It paired well with a 1988 sauternes that a light nose, but rich, deep flavor. It had pear notes paired with something similar to an orange-like acidity at the end.

A great dining experience and a good deal to boot.