Saturday, February 19, 2011

Ardbeg SN2010

I had meant to write about Ardbeg's SN2010 last year when it was released, but I have been a bit lazy, and it is also an extraordinarily difficult dram to decipher. SN2010 is the second release of the ultra-peated Supernova, bringing 100 parts per million of peat to the fight (other Islay whiskies, for comparison, will have somewhere between 25 and 50 ppm of peat). The numbers themselves are not terribly meaningful, however, since there are two methods for measuring peatiness, which can yield wildly different results. (For a quick primer on peat, read this short piece.)

Regardless of the method used, there is no mistaking the power of this whisky straight from the bottle. The smell (some might call it stench) is apparent as soon as it hits the glass. The color is very light, closer to a pinot grigio than any other wine you might compare it to. The whisky comes at 60.1% alcohol by volume, but does not have the nose burn you might expect from a whisky this powerful. The seaweed and brine are there, as well as some fruity notes (more like candied fruit than anything fresh). There's a campfire there in the background and maybe some licorice. Undiluted, it is powerful to drink. Not quite fire-water that will leave you gasping and dunking your head in a bucket of water, but it is not far off. That said, it is surprisingly smooth and well rounded.

Once the water is added, some spice comes out, but much more like Thai spices and chilies. I get a slight hint of orange peel, grass, and even a little dried pine needle. Taking a sip, I still get quite a bit of fire, but the finish is long and warming. This is a very good whisky for the peat freak, though I don't think it comes across as significantly more peaty than the 10 year old or Uigeadail. If I remember correctly, this was about 65 GBP at the distillery, but in the States I have seen it for as much as $130 a bottle. Is it worth it? Hard to tell, but I don't think you'll be disappointed even at that price.

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